My friend Chris and I have a knack of what we like to call “playing things by ear”. Other people call it “leaving everything until the last minute”, and whatever you call it, it normally means whacky hijinks and disaster.
So when we decided to go to one of the most popular camping areas in New South Wales only a few days before the busiest camping weekend of the year, we were sort of expecting a bit of an adventure.
We planned to hike. Chris would like to eventually walk Kokoda, and I have always enjoyed walking outdoors, but of course never do it enough. It was a fresh and healthy thing to do on an Easter Long Weekend, and we were excited at the prospect of exploring some trails that we had ever seen. We selected two half day hikes in the Blue Mountains — the Red Hands Cave Trail and the Grand Canyon Trail. We planned to arrive early Saturday morning, walk one hike, camp the night in a local camping area, and then walk the other trail the next day. There were plenty of shorter walks of various grades close by these longer trails to fill in the rest of those two days.
The Red Hands Cave Trail near Glenbrook is a return trip trail up to a cave containing 1600 year old aboriginal hand paintings. The Grand Canyon Walk near Blackheath is a popular walk down a deep canyon — about the best canyon walk you can go on in the area without proper canyoning equipment.
Chris didn’t have a sleeping back, and mine was old and nasty from the days when I was an army cadet, so we both bought some new sleeping bags of better quality and less weight (any excuse to spend some money, I guess). I was tempted to buy a new tent, but reeled myself in and decided to just dig out my old four man tent that was still in reasonable condition. I also took the opportunity to buy a little gas burner and billy, which I had been planning to get for a while.
The first sign of fun was when I called up to enquire about a few of the camping areas. The response to my polite enquiry was barely controlled laughter from the National Parks officer. “Bah!” we thought, “surely we can find one small place to camp, and if not we can stay at a local hotel.” It all sounded so simple when we said it, so of course that was how it was going to happen.
I had hoped to go shopping for supplies on the Friday before we went camping, so on Friday I suggested we go out and get some canned food and a big water cannister (some camping sites didn’t have fresh water). Chris looked at me blankly for a short while and then reminded me that it was Good Friday, and everything was closed. So there went that idea.
I had hoped to have our feet on the start of the first trail at around 9am on Saturday. We got up at 8am and Chris went to find out how to get to the Blue Mountains. Yes, you have read correctly. He got directions a half hour before we left. We also somehow ended up not taking a map — just some very brief hand written directions from whereis.com.
The trip started off poorly. After stopping at the grocery store on the way out we realised we had left the directions at home. So back we went to get them. Then we went fairly well for a while actually, until we reached the dog that is Blacktown.
Blacktown is a magical land where people don’t believe in road signs, and where whereis.com means “turn left” when it tells you to go straight through. We went around Blacktown two or three times. At one point we ended up at some place called Doonside and made a U-Turn back towards Blacktown (when Chris started singing “We’re going to Bonny Doon”). I, finding the whole “getting lost” thing hilarious, declared that with our luck the Great Western Highway that we were trying to find would probably be just around the bend in Doonside.
We went back down some nameless road and turned left at a sign to the M4, which we knew was an alternative route to Katoomba. Much to our chagrin the turn we took brought us straight through the roads we had just been criss-crossing for the last half hour, but this time in heavier traffic. It did, however, get us onto the Great Western Highway where the first exit we saw was to Doonside. D’oh.
So we drove along, taking turns ranting about how Blacktown and Bonny Doon, and finally we arrived at Glenbrook. I wanted to pull over at the Information Centre to buy a few better maps of the area and find out more about our accommodation that night. After waiting for some bright sparks to clear their cars from the driveway, we finally got to the Info Centre. A building is full when on approaching it you see mismatched limbs sticking out the windows and chimney. We bravely dove into that mayhem and tracked down a map or two of the area before asking about accommodation for the night.
At first I thought the Info Centre guy hadn’t heard me over the din, and began to repeat the question. He cut in, and bluntly told me that I had buckleys, athough he did suggest that if we were very lucky we may find some accommodation an hour’s drive beyond where we were planning to camp. He must have been very devout, because for the rest of the conversation about accommodation he just kept repeating “its Easter Weekend”.
At that point we started thinking that maybe this camping thing may be a bit more difficult to organise than we first thought, but we didn’t give in. We started off towards the Red Hands Cave Trail nearby, and said we would talk it over on the walk.
I told Chris we should park outside the National Park gates and walk in — the start of the trail wasn’t too far in the gates, and it costs $7 just to get the car through the gates. So we parked outside and off we tramped. It wasn’t until we started walking down a steep switchback road that I started thinking maybe we should have brought the car in.
But at the bottom of this mountain we found a small creek and the start of our trail, and we were off. It was a really nice walk. It follows a small, largely dried up creek, and the fairly narrow valley has these huge rocks through it which the trail clambers over from time to time. I realised (again) how unfit I am. We stopped for a break about two thirds into the trip up to the cave, and we sat quietly for a while. It felt good to have such silence — no traffic, no people, no chatter. So much of my life is full of noise, and I really enjoyed sitting there — even for that short time — not needing to speak, and not needing to listen.
The cave was sort of interesting — it was all protected behind a metal cage so that people couldn’t damage what is now considered to be precious heritage. Its a shame we can’t trust people. It would have been cool to be able to get closer to some of those paintings. Some of the hands outlined on the wall were tiny - young children probably, long since grown up, grown old and died — probably without ever having seen a white person.
On the way back we talked about giving up the idea of wasting hours finding a possibly non-existant camping area for the night. When Chris started getting some pains in his feet we figured he wouldn’t be up for another hike the next day anyway, and it was decided. We hauled ourselves back up the switchback (well I hauled and Chris walked along as if he were walking over an anthill), got in the car and drove home.
We were back in time for dinner.